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What went wrong was that I caught a big wave
In the 3rd or 4th bump, I felt my ankle, I fell and broke my ankle
In this wave, I still took the wash from the wave
heavy, but I was well, climbed well,
I was conscious, took a deep breath, did my breathing technique
I went for the 2nd wave
and in the 3rd was actually when,
I was a long time under water in the 2nd wave,
when I climbed after the 3rd wave,
I didn't know where I was exactly
I just felt something in my chest (the life vest exploded)
and with the impact on my chest, I was deep under water for along time, and my vision went black
It was worth it, I would do it again!